Friday, September 29, 2006

Laos v. China (Updated with Photos)

With the exception of the heat, Laos has been a very welcome change from China. First, people here smile. When you smile at them, they return the smile and sometimes offer an unsolicited suh-bai-dee (aka hello); in China no one, albeit one nice old lady on public bus No. 5, seemed to be smiling and rarely would a Chinese person return a smile.
Second, the food is amazing -- e.g., not floating in oil, not overly sweetened with sugar and not fried! In the Yunnan Province it seemed that all of the food was fried and served in a pool of oil. Also, everything was very sweet, even the microwave popcorn (which, if labeled "American Style Popcorn" is a very popular bar snack) was glazed with sugar. In Lao, not only are there really good Laotian dishes, but they have salads which are washed in bottled water for less than a dollar! There is nothing better than a crisp Greek salad to satisfy a raw veggie craving.
Third, the lack of desire to be 'American' is a welcome refreshment. In China, it seems that everything is advertised as being 'American' or is comparable to some Western brand. For example, many of the trademarks for products seem to tip toe the line of infringement.

One of the car companies is named B Y D which is written in black letters below a black outlined circle, the top half of which is royal blue and the bottom half of which is white...sound familiar? The new model is called the F3!



Also, a few sports companies have various swoosh or checkmark-like designs. Hmmm...



One final example...anyone think they know which clothing manufacturer Kalomani Apparel is imitating?



In Lao, people seem to be very content with their Laotian identities and I have yet to see Laotian businesses or companies imitating Western brands.
Fourth, people don't seem to be talking about you in front of you, as they did in China. In China, most Chinese assume that Westerners do not understand Mandarin, which is true. However, when a group of Chinese women point at you, say something in Chinese and then laugh you get a little suspicious. My roommate in China was a Brit who had spent seven months volunteering in a Chinese orphanage and she confirmed that most of these people were in fact speaking about us. We had much fun walking about the markets and when she would hear people saying something like, "stupid westerners don't speak Mandarin" or "I bet her blond hair is fake" she would respond back in perfect Mandarin, "how much does this cost?" or "no, actually my hair is not dyed." Here, people might be more used to tourists such that they don't feel a need to discuss your presence.
However, the heat here is truly oppressive. You have to come to terms with the fact that even if you walk slowly with an umbrella for shade in the morning or evening, you will constantly be sweating. My body will probably adapt as I spend more time here, but the breeze at the cafes along the Mekong River or air-conditioning seems necessary from 1-3pm for everyone.

Thursday, September 28, 2006

China Musings

To be honest, China will probably not be my favorite country that I'll visit on my trip; however, my experience there was just amazing. Although I was averse to group travel outside of climbing expeditions, I met the greatest people on my trip and had an amazing two weeks! Kunming, located in the Yunnan province of China, was a very daunting place when I first arrived. For example, I tried to find a place at the airport to change money so that I could pay the taxi or bus to my hostel. However, no one spoke any English or not enough that I could understand! Finally, through a series of hand gestures, some broken English and Mandarin and someone walking me out of the airport I found the China Bank a few hundred yards outside of the airport where I could change money. My favorite moment of frustration was when one of the security guards decided that since I didn't understand his spoken Mandarin, if he wrote it out in Chinese characters I would understand it!
One nice thing that the Chinese government does do is educate its people at every opportunity. Rather than commercial advertisements, billboards and bus stops are often filled with colorful information regarding topics ranging from medical care/HIV & healthy eating and lifestyle to Intellectual Property rights for new companies. China is not a communist country in the true sense of the word. In fact, it appears to be a controlled capitalist society with the government guiding the ultimate goals of its people through filtered information. For example, our guide, who I will call Jim per his request to stay anonymous for true fear of government retaliation of his truthful answers (NO JOKE!), was a very intelligent man and was very frank with us about most of China's history and present day roadblocks. However, with seemingly childlike ignorance, Jim declared that no terrorists would ever attack China. The government has promised the people that as long as they follow the laws and do not have too much freedom, the terrorists will never attach China. There may be some truth to the fact that the US was targeted due to our freedom; however, one thing 9/11 taught me is to never say never. I think what shocked me was the way Jim laughed as he responded to my question regarding terrorists -- as if I was the one proposing the preposterous idea. This was my first of many exposures to the 'brainwashing' that affects many Chinese.
At dinner that night stories were related of either ignorance, at best, or more likely cult-like brainwashing about Chinese history, Westerns, and other topics. One of my Aussie friends related a story of his friend who, upon having a second child (which is illegal in China) was fired from her teaching job and will only be able to work again if she can get one of her children an Australian citizenship.
One of the upsides of the 'one child' law is that the Chinese revere their children. You see many fathers, grandfathers, mothers, etc... doting on their child.
One final story about the imbalance of exposure to technology and a very scary experience: while flying at around 30,000ft, a man sitting in the window seat of the exit row tried to open the exit door for some fresh air. Ironically, the stewardess had tried to get me to move out of the other exit row seat because she thought that I, as a Westerner, wouldn't be able to figure out what to do in case of an emergency.


Chinese Words of the Day:
Yi (pronounced "ee") = One
Er (pronounced "are") = Two
San (pronounced "san") = Three
Si (pronounced "suh") = Four
Wu (pronounced "woo") = Five
Liu (pronounced "lio") = Six
Qi (pronounced "chi") = Seven
Ba (pronounced "bah") = Eight
Jiu (pronounced "geo") = Nine
Shi (pronounced "shuh") = Ten

China Summary for Now

I've been having too much fun in China to keep up with the blog. Rather than rewrite what my Adelaidian Aussie friend has already so eloquently digitized, I will direct you to his blog: http://garthe.blogspot.com/ for a summary of our trip and some of the more amusing goings-on.

I will try to elaborate on the Aussie's blog within the next few days. Now that I'm on my own again (currently in Laos) I should have more time to write vs. the Chinese drinking games that tended to occupy my free time over the past two weeks.

Just one final note, I've discovered a brilliant way to lighten my load (aka 'the beast,' as my bag has been fondly named): leave things in hotel rooms! For example, brand new, Salomon trail runners...if you leave them in a hotel room in Lijiang, China, your bag gets a bit lighter!

Chinese Word of the Day: Xie Xie (pronounced "si-ay si-ay") = Thank You

Friday, September 15, 2006

Auckland: Part II

Auckland Part II was quite a bit more exciting than Auckland Part I. I arrived late afternoon on Thursday and met Israeli honeymooners on their year-long 'honey-year.' We exchanged travel stories, ended up at the same hostel and went out for drinks in the evening. I awoke early in the morning to meet Dane, who is a friend of Jordan's from college. Dane is a pilot who took me up in a small Cessna for a birdseye view of Auckland and the surrounds. The city looked beautiful bathed in the morning light and the sharp turns at 3.5 Gs made for a great start to the day. We went out for brunch and exchanged old Jordan stories (he he) before I had to head off to the airport for my flight to Bangkok and then to China.

Thursday, September 14, 2006

Random Connections

Wow, the world is small. So I was walking down the streets of Wanaka with Walt's (a friend from Wolf Greenfield) brother, Matt, when we bumped into a guy who Matt knows from Treble Cone (the ski mountain where they both work). Matt introduced me to the guy, who is named Jared, and we all went on our merry ways.
Long story short, I ended up driving Jared, who I found hitching on the road, up to Snow Park (an incredible terrain park). During the car ride, we figured out that he watched Pats games with my sister Debbie in Tahoe. For those of you who follow Debbie's life, he didn't know her as Debbie Mendel, Debbie from Boston, Debbie from Tahoe...he knew her as Debbie the girl who's apartment was broken into by a crack whore...guess a good story is most memorable!

PS: For those of you who know Walt, I did get quite a few incriminating stories over drinks with his brother Matt!

PPS: Will fill in the rest of NZ tonight or tomorrow.

Sunday, September 10, 2006

Destination Dunedin

A long, coastal drive littered with a couple 30 min hikes/walks landed us in Dunedin to have dinner with Lily -- a friend from Chewonki (aka tree school to WGSers) -- her fiance Doug and their very friendly dog Zach. We had a wonderful time catching up over pizza and salad with herbs from their garden.

Saturday, September 09, 2006

ChCh, Methven and Hamner

2 hours into our 5 hour drive up to Christchurch (aka ChCh), we arrived at the milky blue Lake Pukaki to see our first views of the 12,500 ft Mt. Cook, which the indigenous Maori call Aoraki (Cloud Piercer). Lake Tekapo, our next stop, with a population of 295 offered a hike up Mt. John and a wonderful Japanese lunch with bus loads of Japanese tourists who were enthralled by our usage of chopsticks. We sped off to ChCh to afford us an hour or two at the international Antarctic Center. Learning about life on Scott Base, administration of the national (US & NZ) programs, and historical, geological and zoological exhibits paled in comparison to the thrills and frostbite of the 'Antarctic Storm' chamber, in which, as the name suggests, an Antarctic storm is simulated.
The next morning, after we learned how to put chains on our car, we headed up the windy Mt. Hutt access road, the looks of which turned our collective knuckles white. Just as we were getting our ski legs back and enjoying the softening snow, harmless looking clouds from the valley rolled up the mountain, causing white-out conditions. We reluctantly turned in our passes for a half-day refund and skidded back down the access road into Methven. We headed the 3 hours up to Hamner for an evening soak in the sulfurous hot springs.
The best part of Hamner which completed our ChCh experience was meeting two Americans on their way back from McMurdock and the South Pole camps on Antarctica. They enthralled us with stories and factoids about life during a winter on Antarctica.

Thursday, September 07, 2006

Wanaka: Take 1

The locals and books alike say Wanaka is a laid-back Queenstown without the tourist-induced commercialism. Although we've been saying that each successive day becomes our favorite, today was my absolute favorite. We arrived in Wanaka with enough time to climb Iron Mountain before lunch and Rocky Mountain after lunch. Rocky Mountain was particularly fun combining a trip around Diamond Lake with wet, rainforest-like slopes, with scrambling up slabs of rock, with a final ascent entailing battling the wind up grassy knolls. After a glass of a local pinot noir and a hearty bowl of a kiwi-fav, pumpkin soup, we contently retreated to our bargained for -- 40% off! -- room at Matterhorn South Hostel.

Wednesday, September 06, 2006

Te Anau & Milford Sound

Learning to drive a budget rental on the wrong side of the road in the 5am pitch black on the windy, cliff-edge roads was a challenge; however, watching the sky pinken and backlight the snow-frosted Southern Alps was simply unforgettable. After two days of mirky gray skies, the contained clouds dotting a clear blue sky was refreshing to say the least. I won't insult the majesty of the landscape with an engineer's recounting, but promise to post some pictures soon.
We took a boat ride around Milford Sound and witnessed the dramatic effects of 4 glacial passes as well as the numerous waterfalls resulting from averaging over 20 feet of rain per year. A few small hikes later, we spent our evening in a dark cave viewing glow worms - worms which when hungry, emit a soft green light imitating the sun to attract bugs to sticky threads they dangle.

Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Queenstown (aka QT)

Known as NZ's 'adventure capital', QT lives up to its name, but was also a bit anticlimactic. Sure you can heli-ski, bungee, jet boat, sky dive, etc... if you have $200 per half day and the patience to put up with hoards of tourists.
Lauren and I landed on Monday afternoon to make our way to our new home (aka Hippo Lodge) for the next two nights. Besides having 3 bathrooms to ourselves, Hippo was very unimpressive. There we began what was to become our typical wake-sleep schedule: asleep by 8:30-9pm and up and rearing by 5am. By far the best parts of QT were two-fold: (i) Vudu Cafe - amazing brown bread, intimate atmosphere, great people watching and a fireplace, and (ii) our encounter with a star from Lord of the Rings. Orlando Bloom? Viggo Mortensen? No, it was Zoro, one of the black horses on whom the 'Black Riders' rode. We spent an afternoon riding around the foothills on horseback and one of our horses was none other than Zoro!

Sunday, September 03, 2006

Touchdown in NZ

After long, but uneventful plane rides and a wonderfully rejuvenating day in San Francisco with my sister Debbie, I arrived in Auckland at 5am local time. While waiting for the 6am airport-city bus, I met some seemingly young Brits on their GAP year and a man from Charlotte, NC who abandoned his working wife and 27 year old son to travel around NZ for a month. To pass the time until the Auckland Museum -- my stopover activity -- to open, I walked around until I found an adorable cafe and ordered my first of many $3.50 teas.
A few observations about Auckland: (i) Starbucks is cheaper than most cafes, (ii) kiwis where scarves and down jackets in 50F weather, (iii) pedestrians stop for crosswalk signals, and (iv) for what is considered an 'active' country, people seemed shocked that I would want to walk the 3 miles to the museum instead of taking the bus.