I've made it safely out of Bhutan and am now in Kerala in the South of India. I will have to explain more fully later, but Bhutan did not go as planned due to a contractual issue with the yak herders; after two weeks of acclimatization and training, we were unable to enter the remote valley of Lunana. However, our modified route afforded us two days at the natural hot springs at Gaza and an opportunity to see more of the cities and villages of Bhutan. Bhutan receives the trophy for the most beautiful and interesting place visited on this trip so far. It's a magical kingdom with incredibly happy people (albeit a few barbarian yak herders who like to burn walls and doors of huts for warmth when above tree line!) and a wonderful appreciation for their own culture and heritage.
Just to dispel one rumor that I had heard before going to Bhutan: the people love their king. He is truly a man of the people and does not hoard the people's or tourist's money for himself. In fact, 75% of the tourist visa fee goes to education and healthcare. The king lives incredibly modestly and does his best to interact with the people. One story of his compassion relates to a dilapidated house on the road from Thimpu (capital) to Paro (city with the airport). After passing this house many times the king wondered what tragedy could have befallen this man such that he let his house fall into such disrepair -- almost all houses in Bhutan are huge and ornately painted in the traditional style. One day while driving by, he asked his driver to stop, so that he could talk with the man. When he entered the house, he found the man drunk and gambling with neighbors on a wooden box.
I very reluctantly left Bhutan early on November 5th to spend a quick day in Kolkata organizing a package of gear to be sent home -- the budget domestic airline in India only allows 15kgs for a checked bag and I had almost 40kgs! Then I was off to Rishikesh in the himalayan foothill state of Uttaranchal for a very relaxing three days at an Ayurvedic spa. I flew back to Delhi for what turned from a one night stay into a two night stay when my flight which was scheduled to leave at 11am decided to leave at 9:15am. Gotta love budget airlines!
I am currently in the South India state of Kerala. Kerala is what you'd imagine tropical India to be with coconut palm trees, thatched huts, red clay dirt roads and warm ocean waters lapping at the yellow and black sand beaches. With the highest literacy rate and life expectancy in India, the communist state of Kerala is doing quite well; in fact, the literacy rate here is HIGHER than in the US! My two weeks in Kerala will be spent on a bicycle. I've found biking to be a wonderful way to travel to little known villages and meet local people who aren't jaded by the tourists. I've spent the last few days along the coast and am excited to head inland (and uphill!) to the mountain-cooled, hill stations that are surrounded by tea, spice and rubber plantations.
PS: Given the e-mails I've received about the China photos, I promise to post photos from Lao, Bhutan and India as soon as I get a decent internet connection.
